scvagnes.com

Author: e.vagnes@outlook.com

  • Saturday 12th July: The bear had felt so at home he had organised a toilet spot

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    Mikko insisted that before we could call it a day we had to explore our little island, all 500 sq m of it

    Actually in a rainforest quite a lot can be crammed into 500 sq m. Like the leftovers of two of someone’s deer dinners and a shitload of bear shit.

    It dawned upon us that some bear or other was particular about this place. There were a lot of signs of foraging for roots etc.

    But what made us pause was the fact that it had chosen a particular small dump as a toilet spot. And loaded it. Not something you do if you just happen to pass through.

    There obviously was a bear out there that considered this home.

    However, he wasn’t home just now. And judging from the shit he hadn’t been here for some time. He had probably done what bears do in July around here: “gone fishing”.

    Probably. But just in case we put up two alarms on the spit of land that was the only dry entry to the island. Yes, we know that bears can swim, but why waste the calories if you can walk?

    Then it was “lights out” for a night of light sleep.

    But no alarms. The bear had really gone fishing.

  • Saturday 12 of July. It takes a steady supply of rain to cultivate a rainforestp

    Saturday 12 of July. It takes a steady supply of rain to cultivate a rainforestp

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    Steady supply of rain

    The ecology here on the Pacific coast is called temperate rainforest. Apparently tocultivate a rainforest takes not just a lot of rain over the year, but a steady daily supply of the wet stuff. A bit for breakfast, a bit for lunch and dinner and a solid helping over the night.

    To make a forest like this

    At least that is our observation. No alarm tonight, but a steady downpour of rain accompanied by the thunder of waves breaking against the rocks made sure it was no silent night.

    And everything was either soaking wet or just damp.

    Under our dining room tarp it was just damp. We had a nice breakfast looking out at the rain running off the tarp.

    Then it was time to load the boats and 0940 were off to another helping of heavy Pacific swells breaking on the skerries outside. It took a bit of focus, but fortunately it was just four km of it before we came into sheltered waters.

    The rainforest was being well cultivated today as well, but sitting in a dry suit in the kayak we didn’t mind, just as the sea otters, sea lions and whales that crossed our paths (whales, one pretty close) or followed us (sea lions)

    Lunch was grey and wet, but that made the soup taste even better.

    Another two hours paddle and we arrived at a perfect campsite that Mikko had spotted on google.

    It was still raining, but before we were ready to start dinner the sun came out!!!

    Dinner postponed, all textiles out to dry and Mikko and Erling even took a dip.

    Nothing is better than a sunny evening in camp in a rainforest.

  • Friday 11 of July: The alarm went off just after midnight

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    The day got an early start when the alarm Mikko had put on the kayaks went off just after midnight.

    We made noises and Mikko brought out his a bright flashlight. Nothing to see. We noticed that it was high water and any animal passing along the shoreline would have to come close to the kayaks.

    Most likely deer. In the morning we saw four of them along the shoreline less than 100 m away

    The real start of the day was at about 0630 breakfast then packing the boats and off we were just before 0900.

    The first thing that greeted us was a wale passing leisurely bus and blowing frequently, the second thing was the pod of sea lions all within 10 minutes paddling.

    The third thing was the swell and fog from the Pacific Ocean. Today was expected to be the most exposed and challenging paddle of the trip even if the wind had subsided and was a gentle 4 m/s or so, not the 18 m/s forecast for yesterday.

    But still, the costs here treacherous in that there are lots of shallows where the waves break hundreds of metres out from shore.

    The shallows that every wave break on is of least concern, they are easily avoided. It is the ones where it can go minutes between easch breaking wave and then it is a big one, a boomer as they say here.

    The fog does not help either.

    We had set our sight on “Leo’s anchorage” about fifteen km from the shelter. Leo is Mikko’s middle name, given after his late father.

    The three hour paddled demanded some focus on the conditions, but it also had calmer moments when we were sheltered and dozens and dozens of sea otters watched us curiously.

    We fund the place Mikko had identified from google maps. It was a really nice beach. But is had two draw backs. First it would be a 100 m carry of the kayaks at low tide. And second there were fresh bear markings and shit along the forest line.

    We did not want to spend the night high and dry at this place.

    This made for another ten km of paddling through confused waters to get to Mikko’s next pick.

    The two hour paddle was not the most exiting before towards the end when first some humpback whales showed up and then a curious male sea lion up just a few meters away.

    And finally we need to negotiate a lot of breakers to get into a very secluded bay

  • Thursday 10 July: From shelter to shelter (from the storm)

    Today‘s (Thursday’s) weather forecast was gale force winds and three meters waves, so no point in trying to get past some of the more exposed sections of coastline where there is no shelter from the Pacific Ocean.

    Instead we planned a short paddle to a shelter 10 km further north, which will make a nice staring point for crossing the exposed sections on Friday

    We planned to get up early, but we were beaten by the speedboats of the sportsfisheries out of Sitka. The first sped past before 0500.

    Weather was still good -no rain. And after a leisurely outdoor breakfast we were off at 0830

    The paddle was about two hours, short and sweet. Almost no wind nor waves, at times the water surface was like a mirror.

    We paddled out at low tide and got a view of the littoral zone on the cliffs as we passed. XL barnacles and starfish were clinging on.

    As we approached the shelter we were greeted by flock at least half a dozen curious sea lions, following the boat, but diving with a splash if we turned our heads

    The shelter was exactly the same as yesterday. A much better location on a rock at the inlet of a small bay, But withy firewood! Last night we did not need it, today as the atmospheric river came down on the roof it was another matter. But we have warm clothes.

    We are a tad bit apprehensive about tomorrow. The wind will come down to well within manageable, but two meters swell will remain, part of the coastline is without proper shelter but littered with reefs that creates intermittent breakers, or boomers as they are called here.

    Parts of Finnmark have the same issue, and Karianne and Erling have vivid memories and deep respect for those.

    If we don’t consider it safe we can turn and opt for the “Inside passage” in sheltered waters.

    This is where the name “Inside Passage” comes from. Because part of the coast is too rough for small vessels to navigate on the outside, loads of small vessels navigated the inside passage during the Klondike gold rusk, when Skagway (close to Haines) was the main point of disembarking.

    No paddlers at that point as far as we understand..

  • Wednesday 9th of July: Finally underway

    (Bandwidth does not allow pictures will update later)

    Sitka Ferry Harbour to North Neva island, 26 km.

    We took advantage of the jet lag to get an early start to the day. Coffee ready at 0545 and then John came and made us some more…

    It is always interesting to pack the kayaks on day one. Will everything fit in? Well, with the kayak trolleys we knew there would be some deck cargo.

    We also plan to carry tent and tarp as deck cargo instead of stuffing soaking wet stuff in the hatches.

    As always we just made it work. Three days in as we figure out better how to pack (and eat a bit of the provisions) kayak cargo capacity usually increases by 25%.

    We set off about 0930 in perfect conditions, paddled for about three hours and found a perfect place for a long lunch.

    Had a long lunch. Mikko served chili con carne, the sun came out, no wind. Just the way we prefer.

    We then paddled for another couple of hours to where we knew there would be an “emergency shelter”; that is a three wall construction with an open front. (Gapahuk). This one even came with a wood fired oven.

    The lunch spot

    Along the way we saw many tens of bald eagles and just one lonely seagull.

    We also saw a dozen or so fishing boats, most appeared to be recreational. Some had made some catch and the system was that a table was erected at the back to cleanse the fish while speeding home.

    Offal went overboard, which is probably why bald eagles were perched on trees alongside the shipping lane and often took a trip out to inspect (for offal?) each time a boat passed.

    The weather forecast for Thursday is such that we plan to stay here and wait it out. Or maybe paddle just 10 km further to another shelter to be well positioned to cross some exposed stretches on Friday.

    But anyway no point in trying to go outside of Chicchagof island in gale force winds and torrential rain.

    That is tomorrow’s problems. Tonight it is just light clouds no rain even the occasional glimpse of the sun. An it is pancakes for dinner!

    Our shelter for the night

  • No updates for the next seven to nine days

    No updates for the next seven to nine days

    Almost good to go

    But the map tracker should work when we are paddling

    LINK

  • Tuesday 8th of July: NO tipping allowed!

    Tuesday 8th of July: NO tipping allowed!

    We had a very pleasant ferry trip aboard the M/V Columbia.

    Studying the maps

    Including dinner and breakfast in the restaurant. Contrary to custom in North America the restaurant was full of signs with “tipping forbidden”!

    You cannot tip, but you can camp. (Not our tent fortunately!)

    When we asked why, the answer was that sometime in the late nineties the waiters had stated earning more than the captain. And that could not be!

    John, our host. Including for 0600 morning coffee!

    We got ashore and checked in to the Sportsman’s association campsite, complete with a shooting range. And VERY conveniently located just 500 m from the ferry terminal and run by a friendly man called John.

    En route to the campsite We are glad we brought the trolleys

    After having parked the kayaks, we took the once per hour bus toward town to shop ten days supplies.

    The bus driver was a friendly guy and explained that we pay by dropping dollars into a box. He asked where we were going and suggested we pay for all three trips we’d need at once. But no tickets?? No need this line had just one driver.

    Shopping took a couple of hours and then it was time for a bit of food from the adjacent fast food place. There you can have any food you like as long as it is deep fried chicken

    We managed to pitch the tents under a tiny roof, just as well because the rain sounded like a train passing as it hit the roof during night.

    We were a bit apprehensive because both at the ferry terminal and the bus driver warned us that there was a bear with two cubs hanging around.

    We slept tight anyway, but in the morning the dustbins were turned over. So there had been a nightly visit…

    Tomorrow we paddle off.

    We expect to be out of communication except satellite for six to nine days.

    The map tracker in the menu of this site should work and give our location when we are on the water.

  • Monday 7th July evening: Leaving Haines

    Monday 7th July evening: Leaving Haines

    The M/V Columbia

    We had tickets to Sitka on the 1930 departure M/V Columbia.

    Joe drove us over and dropped off us and the equipment. A handshake and a hug for farewell and we had mentally left Haines, focus forward.

    Joe Osterling

    We leave Haines with a very positive impression.

    Our impression is that it is a place where people look out for and help each other. Like so many other small distal communities we have paddled by both in Scandinavia and Russia.

    These are places where one person doing well -at least well enough to stay- is the foundation for other people’s opportunities. And the other way round, if people start leaving opportunities evaporate.

    It seems that this fosters a culture of collaboration and maybe also select for people who relate to that, like Joe who moved there from Michigan with his wife 15 years ago.

    Haines largest employers according to the brochure at “rusten compass” cafe is: Tourism, Local Government, Health Care and fisheries.

    It may not be the most robust of foundations, but they make it work.

    Long may it last, we leave with fond memories

  • Monday 7th of July: There are no tomatoes in Haines on Mondays…

    Monday 7th of July: There are no tomatoes in Haines on Mondays…

    Monday morning we were up three hours before the first breakfast place opened, so we had ample time to make the wrong pick among the two options.

    Helsing land hotel. The buildings were part of the military station here that closed in 1941

    We chose the bakery. Turned out it was more of a patisserie. No fresh bread. But they did serve breakfast both omelets and eggs Benedict. We asked them to go light on the potatoes and long on the tomatoes.

    Spot the tomatoes!

    Breakfast came and was long on potatoes and devoid of tomatoes.

    As a compensation coffee was served by the pint.

    Next stop was the test paddle. Good to be on the water. No surprises with the kayaks a little back and forth with paddles but we were very happy in the end.

    Now we were seriously ahead of schedule and serious tired from jet lag. Same solution as yesterday walk up and down Main Street.., all 650 m of it

    Then something totally unexpected happened: The sun came out! Main Street sprung to life! The challenge now was: where to get an ice cream??

    Ice cream. One of two available varieties

    Not so easy – even though Haines is among the driest places in SE Alaska with barely 1500 mm rain per year, ice cream wasn’t a common commodity.

    Finally we found a small selection at “Olerud” the main grocery shop. The situation was under control!

    Speaking of selections: we noticed there were several empty baskets in the vegetable section. The explanation was straight forward: fresh produce only came to Haines once a week on Tuesdays. Today was Monday and supplies were running low.

    This explained the breakfast tomato debacle: There are no tomatoes in Haines on Mondays.

  • Sunday 6th of July: Jet lagged in Haines

    Sunday 6th of July: Jet lagged in Haines

    On Sunday morning we had an 0530 Uber lift from the airport to the ferry terminal and the ferry M/V Hubbard which left Juneau at 0700 and arrived in Haines at 1145

    Good to go from Juneau

    The Alaska Marine Highway System ferries are what “Hurtigruta” used to be along the Norwegian coast: The primary means of transport of people and goods among the commutes here in SE Alaska.

    As an example: The Alaska state capital of Juneau does not have a road connection, so it is ferry or plane.

    Joe Osterling

    In Haines we were picked up by Joe Osterling of SEAK Expeditions, our kayak renter and outfitter.

    With Joe in his workshop

    Joe and his company is the reason we went to Haines. They have a strong reputation and first class equipment, and we don’t want any compromises on equipment, that is about safety.

    Joe first took us to the Helsingland hotel to drop off luggage and then to his warehouse to look at the boats. (For the kayak nerds: Two Cetus high volume and one NDK expedition).

    We agreed to take a test paddle Monday and then Joe dropped us off for lunch.

    The rest of the day was about fighting jet lag by walking up and down main street (all 650 meters of it) doing some window shopping -and some real shopping in the well stocked outdoor shop.

    Waiting for the Halibut fish and chips with a lager from the local brewery

    Eventually it was dinner time, but even after an excellent halibut fish & chips dinner it was still too early to call it a day.

    We took a detour through the harbour, along way we became aware of what looked like an abandoned graveyard, we later learned it was and old graveyard for the Tingit tribe.

    From what we could read people died young around here a hundred years ago.

    No one had looked after this graveyard for years or maybe rather decades. The inscriptions were hardly readable, the souls resting there apparently forgotten by all.

    It was a somewhat sinister end to the day, but at least it was an end: By the time we were back at the hotel it was almost 2100 and we could finally call it a day and declare lights out in our small suite in Hotel Helsingland.