Since we were sleeping light the day got an early start and since the gnats were out in high numbers breakfast was effective. We were on the water at 0800.
We were rewarded for the early start. The water lay like a mirror in sunshine from an almost clear blue sky.
The trails of sea otters, seals and sea lions shimmered like streaks of silver, while bald eagles flew overhead and deer grazed along the shores. But no bears.
We had two very narrow channels to navigate and we were apprehensive of the risk of strong head currents, but fortunately we hit mostly slack water.
After almost four hours we called it lunch. Lunch was Mikko’s smoked oyster spaghetti, it tastes as good as it sounds.
Next was a short outside outside passage in the Pacific Ocean again. Going out is easy, getting back inside can be a bit more adrenaline rich. We had to look a bit around to find a safe passage in and toward today’s destination: White sulphur hot springs.
When we arrived there was already two boats at anchor there and the landing was lousy for kayaks. We paddled just 150 m up along the coast and found a very small and very secluded cove.
A bit of reconnaissance and we discovered a nearby campsite en route to the hot springs. We put up the tents found out towels and some clean clothes and set off for the hundred and fifty or so meters to the buildings at the hot springs.
After about thirty meters we bacame aware of something about to cross the path less than ten metres ahead of us. Two bear cubs followed by their grizzly mother. Obviously, not all bears have gone fishing; these were foraging for roots at the beach, but now heading back into the forest.
They were so close that we would have had to use the wide angle on the camera to capture all three in one frame. It was definitely a photo opportunity.
It was also an opportunity to turn 180 degrees and just keep the conversation going at a constant pitch.
We took the latter opportunity.
Once the bears had disappeared into the forest we went down towards the sea and walked to the hot springs over wave washed boulders. At least it was open terrain
We had an uneventful 100 m walk.
On arriving at the hot springs we were greeted by a three generation plus two dogs family outing and a salmon fisherman, both parties based in Elfin Cove for the summer. That is where we plan to be in two days time.
They were only mildly impressed by our bear encounter. Par for the course around here apparently.
As they were leaving the high tide had allowed the swell to reach in and Mikko and Erling who were taking a chilling dip anyway helped steady then pack raft and paddle board the family used to get to their boat.
(We later learned that they probably could have managed blindfolded and backwards, but they thanked us all the same)
We were impressed by the hot springs and the building erected on top of them. A fantastic place to warm up while gazing out over the Pacific.
Then we discovered that there was another building. A cabin. With four walls an and a solid door. That trumps three bears.
Strictly speaking we should have booked in advance, but..
Long story short tents down and camp moved inside.
Good thing that was. Just as we sat down for dinner a huge male grizzly bear walked leisurely past where we had just been taking a dip in the outside pool…
Makes for a deeper nights sleep.
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