We left Elfin Cove around 1200 on Wednesday to try to get slack water out through the South Inian Passage.
Debra and Bobo had given us strong recommendations to visit a place called Hobbit Hole. But as we got out into the South Inian passage the currents were running hard. We thought that if this is slack water we don’t want to be anywhere near on non-slack water. Conditions were perfect for crossing to LeMaitre island. We chose to forego Hobbit Hole and take the good conditions while we had them.
Just as well. As we arrived at LeMaitre island the water was running like a river against us (westward) although the tide was going in (eastward). In less benign conditions this would have turned interesting.
As it were we paddled in the “channel” between the kelp belt and shore. Turned out it was just the same place the humpback whales were feeding. By lying still and holding on to the kelp we managed to observe from about ten metres distance.
Impressive. Big but agile animals.
We also saw a bald eagle catch a fish too big to lift. What did it do? It swam to shore with the fish, butterfly style!
We ended up paddling all 27 km to the northeast point of LeMaitre island in one go. So much for our learning into Elfin cove that three breaks were optimal for 32 km… so we’re tired, but not to tired to make a feast out of the fresh fish Debra had sent with us. But then the day was done. We went to tents to the sound of the water flowing like a river eastward even though the tide was flowing out westward. Over towards glacier bay there was what looked like a two metre high braking current waves
We took a cautious approach also Thursday and waited for low tide to get slack water even though that meant carrying the kayaks quite some distance over slippery boulders.
Again good choice we got following currents and managed to get over to the east bank of the inlet to glacier bay without incident and travelling at 7 plus km/hr (normal has been 5ish)
All the way whales were blowing in all directions but mostly in or near the kelp belt.
After lunch we managed again to get up quite close to a humpback as it broke the surface.
Then there was a short paddle to the ranger station and the associated campground. Well organised and set up with food caches etc. But also with a damping fresh bear dropping in the middle of the path. No one seemed to pay much attention.
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